Going back to the convoluted story of Citrus, I bring you the Buddha's hand citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis). This odd fruit looks the creation of a Monsanto scientist gone mad- combining the genes of a squid with a lemon (which is something I wouldn't be surprised they've tried).
It is a pulp-less citron containing a thick 'albedo' (the white part of a Citrus rind). What's the use of a pulp-less Citrus? The peel! This unusually shaped fruit is esteemed for its incredible fragrance which is citrusy and somewhat floral. A Japanese scientist (Shiota 1990) studied the essential oil of Buddha's hand citron and found that it contained a ketone known as beta-ionone, which is also important to the aroma of roses.
The Buddha's hand citron likely originated in China but it was quickly spread to India, Korea and Japan. Well-known and widespread by the 10th century in China, this fruit was depicted in paintings, carved in jade, and lacquered panels.
The Chinese origin hypothesis is supported by the diversity of varieties in China, particularly of a variety from Yunnan known as "Muli" which has characteristics intermediate with typical citrons: only partial 'fingers', corrugations on the sides, and a small amount of pulp with few seeds. China has varieties developed for larger fruits, more 'fingers', and for bonsai. In the US, there is only one, possible two varieties. It can only be grown in frost-free areas such as southern California, Florida and south Texas.
Buddha's hand citron makes an excellent zest when grated off the fruit. The peel and rind can be candied or made into marmalade. Vodka infused with the zest with some simple syrup added creates a lovely liqueur. If more peel is infused in the vodka (sans the syrup) it can be used as a flavoring agent in baked goods and dessert much like vanilla extract.
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